From sailing around the stunning cliffside village to sipping limoncello in a lemon grove, here’s your complete guide to an authentic “la dolce vita” holiday in Positano.
There are many beautiful coastal towns along the Amalfi Coast, but there is only one Positano. If you’re looking for a true Italian holiday escape, you will for sure want to pencil in a few days to soak up the sun in this iconic seaside town. Over the years, I’ve stumbled upon countless pictures of Positano with colorful buildings built into the side of staggering cliffs and hundreds of sailboats and yachts dotting the coastline. As dreamy as the pictures may be, it’s somehow even more breathtaking in person.
We decided to visit Positano on a weekend whim, but managed to luck out with a really cute hotel that was in walking distance to the sea. It was a bit of walk with our luggage, but you need to be prepared for that in Positano. There are only two main roads in town, so no matter where you’re staying, you’ll likely have to carry your luggage through some of the narrow, cobblestone roads. Pack accordingly – unless you’re like me and can’t help but overpack every time!
What to do
Take a boat excursion
If you go to Positano and didn’t get on a boat, did you really even go to Positano? Jokes aside, taking in the breathtaking views of Positano from the water is a truly unforgettable experience. If you came all this way to enjoy the panoramic views of Positano, then I highly recommend you experience it from the water too! The great thing is that there are tons of affordable boat excursion options on AirBnb Experiences. We took this two-hour sunset cruise around the coastline and they provided Prosecco and a typical aperitif, assorted snacks and small bites.
Sip wine at Mt. Vesuvius
Okay, doesn’t this already sound absolutely amazing?! I stumbled upon this vineyard and wine tasting tour and now I have to experience it next time I’m on the Amalfi Coast. Here’s how the website describes this fabulous excursion: “Stroll through the vineyards and winery of a traditional estate on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius. Join your host on a guided tour and learn about the production of Lacryma Christi DOC wines. Taste a variety of organic wines paired with a light lunch made with local ingredients while admiring stunning views of Mount Vesuvius, the Bay of Naples, Sorrento, and the Island of Capri.”
Squeeze the day making limoncello
You can’t go to the Amalfi Coast and not try the famous limoncello. This is definitely the land of endless lemon groves and you know that makes this girl’s heart happy. On Viator there is an incredible 4-6 hour Limoncello excursion from Positano to Fuore. First you get to check out the lemon groves and then learn how to make the iconic lemon liquor with a local chef. The class is followed by a lemon-infused 5-6 course lunch featuring lemon beer and local wine. I honestly can’t think of a more perfect Amalfi excursion if I tried! Please book this on your trip to Positano and tag me (@la.dolce.limone) so I can live vicariously through you!
Explore the ancient ruins of Pompeii
There are tons of amazing excursions to Pompei available through GetYourGuide. You can choose from an array of guide tours, anywhere from 3 – 7 hours depending on what you are interested in. I found this really amazing 8 hour tour from Naples to both Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius’ summit. This is definitely a full-day affair, so make sure you wear comfy walking shoes and bring everything you might need in a small backpack of sorts – extra water, sunscreen, hat, antibacterial spray/wipes, etc.
where to eat
Pupetto Ristorante – We dined here for lunch one day and had an exceptional experience. We delighted in their fresh bruschetta, caprese salad with the juiciest and most delicious tomatoes EVER, fried zucchini flowers, spaghetti with clams and a wood-fired margherita pizza with San Marzano tomatoes. This delicious meal combined with stunning terrace views of the ocean and a bottle of pinot grigio made for the quintessential Positano lunch vibe. [insert *chef’s kiss* here]. I’m sure it’s even dreamier at dinner time but don’t take my word for it! Go and see for yourself and report back to me.
La Sponda – This is a magnificent restaurant located inside the iconic Le Sirenuse. The website says it’s a “culinary love letter to Naples, Vesuius, and the Amalfi Coast,” and they are not wrong. From the views, to the charming music, and glow of a candlelit meal, this is what I call a “once-in-a-lifetime” kind of restaurant experience. If you are a foodie like myself, you need to experience a restaurant like this at least once in your lifetime. The website goes on to say, “In a simple plate of pasta al pomodoro, a branzino grilled to perfection or a Neapolitan babà dessert so light and fluffy you can cut it with the side of a fork, lie stories of viscounts and peasants, fishermen and princes, but also stories of rivers, forests and volcanoes, dry-stone wall terraces.”
Il Ritrovo – This gorgeous hillside restaurant features “gourmet plates in a chic hilltop eatery with a shuttle service & terrace overlooking the coast.” The complimentary bruschetta is incredible!
Roc Pizza & Steak – If you are looking for a chic restaurant with an incredible Neopolitan style pizza, then look no further. The restaurant has an amazing vibe and some of the best meats and pizza around. Reviews often comment on the amazing pizzas and the steak being some of the best they’ve ever had. There’s only one way to find out…
Al Palazzo – This Michelin-star restaurant is not only known for its delicious food, but for its amazing ambience, music, and hospitality. Some people say it beats out some of the other Michelin-star restaurants in the area. It’s a very charming restaurant option, and particularly romantic for any couples in search of a quiet candlelit dinner.
Lo Guarrancino – This restaurant is a well-known seafood-lovers haven. It’s one of the more reasonably priced options around with incredible views of Positano overlooking Fornillo Beach. Reviewers often raved about the “tagliolini pasta with lemon sauce and shrimp and the spaghetti with fresh clams in a garlic and olive oil sauce.”
Where to stay
Boutique Hotels (mid-range)
Hotel Vittoria Positano – located in the Fornillo Beach quarter
We found this adorable hotel at the last minute and it was a steal with its stunning seaside views, complimentary breakfast and private balcony. The panoramic views from our balcony were incredible, and especially dreamy at night when the town was all lit up. I also loved the clean, spacious, and vibrantly decorated rooms. This boutique hotel has the perfect Amalfi vibe and is only a brief 10-15 minute walk to the heart of town.
One thing to note, there are a good 250 some stairs to get down to the waterfront. You’ll also have to take them back up in order to get back to the hotel. Consider it a light “hike” that might be a bit difficult for any folks who can’t do a lot of stairs or strenuous physical activity. Once you do get down to Fornillo beach, be prepared for some incredible beach clubs and restaurants! We had a wonderful time dipping into the water, basking in the sun and sipping on refreshing Aperol Spritz’ to our heart’s content. It definitely felt like we were living “La Dolce Vite.”
Overall, I highly recommend this hotel for an affordable and delightful stay in Positano. We didn’t get a chance to check out any other hotels on this quick trip, but there are hundreds of amazing options. I’ve already taken the liberty of researching them and have hand-selected a few of the best options for you:
Hotel Villa delle Palme – This is a wonderful mid-range option in the main city center for those looking to experience a comfortable boutique hotel with Mediterranean views. One guest recently left a rave review saying, “This place was so cute and the staff were so friendly and welcoming. Breakfast next door was delicious. Lots of restaurants nearby and walkable to the port while being far enough away to enjoy peace and quiet. Would highly recommend!”
Hotel Villa Gabrisa – The reviews of this boutique hotel speak for themselves! The majority of rave reviews are about this hotel being a 10/10 experience with spectacular seaside views, a very friendly and hospitable staff, and nicely decorated, clean rooms. One of the most notable reviews says, “Loved everything about this place! The staff made you feel like family, breakfast was amazing, the views from our room were beautiful and truly I cannot say enough about how wonderful our stay was.”
AirBnbs/VRBOs
There are hundreds of amazing AirBnb options across Positano. Here are a handful of AirBnbs that are ideal for couples, but I’ve also included a few villa options for those traveling with a family or in a small group – can you imagine a more dreamy Bachelorette destination?!
Casa L’Uliveto (Superhost; 3 guests, 1BR) – From the AirBnb host, “The house is surrounded by the green of olive trees and the cultivated gardens of the family. The tranquility of the place and our warmth will allow you to spend a stay in total relaxation making you feel right at home.” The reviews also mention an incredible breakfast made by the owner. Yes, please!
Casa Toby (Superhost; 2 guests, 1BR) – The terrace views from this AirBnb are absolutely dreamy. From the AirBnb host, “Casa Toby is located in the small town of Montepertuso above Positano. If you are looking for peace and tranquillity then you will love this corner of the Amalfi Coast. You have close at hand some amazing mountain hikes, beautiful views of the coast and you are a short bus ride away from many local attractions.”
Maison Ciccio – il Monticello (2 guests, 1BR) – According to the AirBnb host, “Relax and recharge in this oasis of quiet elegance. The recently renovated apartment is located in the upper side of Positano and offers a living room, full kitchen, a private terrace with splendid views of Positano, as well as a private sauna.” They had me at ‘oasis’ and ‘sauna!’
Scrigno di Rosita (Superhost; 2 guests, 1 BR) – Clean, cozy and just a short walk to the beach. This cute AirBnb seems to have it all and I like the fresh vibe of the interior. From the host, “Scrigno di Rosita, is an elegant independent house in Positano surrounded by greenery and can accommodate 2 guests. The panorama offers a truly peaceful and relaxing stay.”
Casa Marina Villa (6 guests, 3BR) – If I was ever to plan a family trip or bachelorette in Positano, this place would probably be at the top of my villa shortlist. From the website, “It is a historic house of great charm and value, independent, located on the noble floor of a luxurious period villa (late 18th century) in the upper part of Positano (district) Chiesa Nuova, in a very quiet area away from the noise, although central, with spectacular views of the sea and mountains.” Just one scroll through the pictures of this Italian beauty has be awe-struck.
Villa Ibiscus Ancient villa (7 guests, 4BR) – This is another excellent villa for a small group that is looking for a quiet retreat with stunning views of Positano. One of the reviews says, “Our group of 3 couples loved this villa, beautiful inside with antique furniture and tiles, lots of space for gathering or privacy. We loved sitting on the balconies watching the water. The location is close to beaches, shopping and restaurants, expect everything to be up or down cobblestone steps.”
Luxury Hotels
Hotel Palazzo Murat – Breathtakingly majestic. That is how I’d describe this boutique hotel located in the heart of Positano’s city center. It’s in an elegant 18th century building with gorgeous panoramic views of stunningly landscaped gardens with centuries-old citrus trees. I haven’t had the pleasure of staying here yet, but they really got my attention with, “historic building surrounded by lemon trees.” Sign me UP!
Le Sirenuse – If budget isn’t a major concern and you are looking for a lavish weekend resort, then this is your place. This is by far one of the most iconic hotels in all of Positano. Chances are, if you’ve looked up pictures of Positano on Pinterest, you’ve probably stumbled upon this hotel’s poolside terrace views of the colorful cliffside town. Not only does it have a champagne and oyster bar, but also a Michelin restaurant. I highly recommend this hotel for couples that are looking for a fabulous honeymoon splurge.
Hotel Eden Roc Suites – This lux hotel is located in one of the highest-rated areas of Positano. Not only is it gorgeously decorated in the vibrant Amalfi Coast style, but it has stunning terrace views, a Turkish bath and a sauna! Talk about the ultimate relaxation destination.
Il San Pietro di Positano – This is another luxurious 5-star hotel for those looking to splurge on a truly unforgettable stay. It also has a private beach, a Michelin restaurant, tennis court, and scenic terrace and balcony views. Judging by the pictures, this is surely one of the most immaculately decorated and stunning hotels in all of the Amalfi coast.
How to get there
If you’re planning a trip to Positano, you’ll likely be flying into Rome since Aeroporti di Roma Fiumicino is the largest international airport near southern Italy. No matter what your budget is or how you prefer to travel, there are tons of options for getting to Positano. Read on for all of my tips for getting to this magical seaside village!
By train
One of the easiest and most affordable ways to travel from Rome to Positano is of course by train. I highly recommend booking a train through Italy’s national train service, Trenitalia. I was blown away by how cheap (and luxurious) a first class train ticket was! We had a private compartment on the train and they even provided a really nice snack box.
You will take the train from Roma Termini station directly to Napoli Centrale without any connections. There are a couple of train options offered through Trenitalia:
- Regionale – this is the most affordable option but also the slowest, taking up to 3 hours. The price is around 12 Euro and there is no assigned seating.
- Intercity – this is a slightly more expensive option but takes just about 2 hours. They do offered assigned seating and a ticket is around 15 Euro.
- Frecciarossa – this is definitely the fastest train option, taking just about 1 hour and 15 minutes. They do require seat reservations and tickets will run you around 20-30 Euro – still pretty affordable in my book! Try to book your tickets in advance for a better deal.
From Naples you can get a taxi to Positano, but I recommend organizing a private transfer in advance through a service like Positano Shuttle for a more hassle-free option.
By bus
If you prefer to take a bus and are not in a major hurry, the best option is to take a bus directly from Rome to Positano. The whole ride will take about 4 hours. The most popular bus route is operated by Marozzi and leaves at 7am from Roma Tiburtina station and costs about 25 Euro.
Private taxi
A private taxi from Rome to Positano is definitely the most convenient option, but also the most expensive. However, if you are traveling in a group of 6 or so, this may be a cost-effective option as private transportation runs around 600 euro, more or less.
Shared shuttle
A shared shuttle is a bit more affordable if you are traveling from Rome to Positano and do not mind sharing transportation with some other tourists. This is estimated to be around 100-150 per person. Amalfi Shuttle is a great shared transportation service and only costs around 35-50 euro a person when traveling from just Naples to Positano. You can also book a transfer for your return back to Naples or directly to Rome.
By ferry
It’s impossible to take a ferry from Rome down to Positano (for obvious reasons) but once you get to Naples, there is an option for a ferry ride over to Positano. There is a high-speed ferry through NLG (Navigazione Libera del Golfo) that is available for booking through Bookaway.
If you want to bounce around to other towns along the Amalfi coast, there are ferry options in the area, though they do not go to every town. The towns they do service include Amalfi, Salerno, Sorrento, Positano, Capri, Maiori, Cetara, and Minori.
No matter how you get to Positano, you’re in for an unforgettable holiday once you arrive. If you’ve found this Positano travel guide helpful, be sure to bookmark it and tag me on IG @la.dolce.limone.com so I can keep up with your beautiful travels. Buon viaggio!
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